That’s the Spirit: Rum

The various flavor profiles of rum add complexity to cocktails, with some recipes calling for multiple types
of rum. Distilling sugarcane can be traced back centuries to multiple countries, including India and nations in the West Indies. Today, rum is produced in more than 80 countries. Despite the prevalence, or maybe because of it, with so many different cultures and styles — rum is often misunderstood. 

If you’re browsing the rum aisle in the liquor store, you’ll notice the variety of colors — from black to chestnut brown
to amber gold to clear. Yet, there’s remarkable diversity among rums of the same color and plenty of overlap in aging and distilling techniques among the different hues. You certainly can’t judge a rum by its color.

Rum Believable  

While there are no international standards for how rum must be produced, that doesn’t mean the spirit has no rhyme or reason. Many islands, Cuba and Martinique to name just two, have set their own regional standards for rum — just
as the U.S. has done to distinguish bourbon from whiskey. 

For guidance on how to explore this spirit, rum expert Matt Pietrek has proposed paying attention to several key aspects: source material, distillation, origin (one distillery or multiple?), aging and flavorings. Get more tips in Modern Caribbean Rum: The Ultimate Rum Bible; the aptly named book was co-authored by Pietrek and his wife, Carrie Smith. He’s also the Community Envoy for the West Indies Rum and Spirits Producers’ Association, and he runs the websites cocktailwonk.com and rumwonk.com. 

Source to Still 

All rum starts with sugarcane, which can be in the form of sugarcane juice, syrup, molasses or a combination. Don’t get it twisted — a sugarcane base does not equate to a sweet drink. While there are sweeter rums, don’t blame the sugarcane. A sweet flavor profile is crafted with additives.

Rum can be distilled using copper pot stills, coffey pot stills or column stills; distillers work continuously or in batches, and the finished product can even be a blend of several distillation types. At this stage in production, the spirit is clear — coloration develops next.

Age Before Beauty 

Rum can be aged in wooden barrels anywhere from a few weeks to decades. As in any aging process, barrels can add flavor complexity and impact the color. Additional filtration might be used to lighten or remove color imparted from the aging process. 

As you might be coming to expect with rum, there can even be diversity among rums aged the same length of time. For example, are the barrels new? Charred? Are they resting in a humid climate or somewhere with cooler temps? Or, if the rum is a blend, does it include rums aged for different lengths of time? 

Another key consideration: don’t fall into the trap of darker equals older. Black rum may or may not be aged, but typically gains its midnight hue from color additives like molasses or caramel. And on the other side, white or clear rum is often aged, too, but is lightened through additional filtration. 

Sugar, Spice, Everything Nice 

Like many spirits, other flavor agents can be added after distillation to add new flavors and aromas. Spiced rum draws in flavorings like cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice or cardamom. Try spiced rum in a negroni or hot toddy — perfect for a relaxing evening. 

Flavored rum tends to focus on adding in one strong flavor profile, rather than a blend. On Ohio shelves you’ll find bottles of coconut or pineapple rum — ideal for frozen cocktails — or dark roast coffee rum, perfect for chilling and serving with espresso. 

Stay Rum Curious

Don’t let the variations of rum deter you from spending time sipping and crafting cocktails with this spirit. If your curiosity has been piqued, consider joining the Ohio Rum Society Facebook group, founded by Chad White, that meets 10 to 16 times a year. 

“The few years leading up to forming the Ohio Rum Society in 2016, world travel and the soaring craft cocktail movement helped me realize that everything I thought I knew about rum was totally wrong, from its production and prestige to its versatility in a glass,” White says, “Rum stands on its own next to the greatest spirits out there, from single malts to small batch mezcals.” 

Through monthly tasting socials and conversations on the group’s Facebook page, the Ohio Rum Society seeks to “empower Ohio consumers through education and info sharing, shining a light on the most diverse and historically rich spirit in the world while debunking all the myths and misconceptions along the way.” 

Rum Old Fashioned

2 oz. aged rum
¼ oz. demerara syrup 
1 dash bitters
1 orange twist

Proof Magazine is for Ohio spirit lovers and is produced by Great Lakes Studios. Don’t miss an issue by subscribing to Ohio Magazine. View a digital version of the Proof Magazine Summer 2024 edition here.